Everybody feels good when wearing a well fitted garment. It really doesn’t matter what shape you are because a well fitted garment will compliment any figure. You may have a garment you love, if only it fitted properly.
In my own past experience, I have come across certain issues when it comes to purchasing clothes. For instance I have always had to buy a label size up to accommodate for sleeve length. If I had bought the correct size, then the sleeves would be too short. Some may come across the problem of buying trousers which have a perfect fit on the waist, but the trouser length is too long, or the hem width too wide. There are many scenarios of fitting problems when it comes to buying garments.
This blog is to bring you easy step by step instructions on simple alterations you can perform on friends, family or your own garments.
Sleeve board (optional) – useful for pressing sleeve or trouser hem.
Sharp pointed pair of small scissors – for trimming and snipping.
Dressmakers shears (scissors) – to cut away larger excess bits of fabrics.
Pins with large heads – to pin fabric in place.
Hand sewing needles – for hand sewing.
Thimble- protect fingers.
A dress makers stitch unpick- used to unpick stitches.
Thread – for stitching.
Tailors chalk or fabric marking pencils – to mark lines.
Tracing wheel and dress makers tracing paper – useful for marking stitch lines on lightweight fabrics.
Tape measure or ruler - for measuring.
Tip – a used firm bar of soap which has become quite flat, can also be used to replace tailors chalk.
Taking Up Trouser Hems
- Firstly mark the length you wish your trousers to be, by pinning into place. Please note: if the trousers are to be worn with specific shoes, it is essential to wear those shoes when determining your hem length.
Once you are satisfied with the length you can move on to the next stage.
- Remove the trouser and place onto a flat surface. Measure each trouser leg to make sure they are the same length. Mark with your tailors chalk, the hemline using a ruler or tape measure to ensure an even measurement all around the hem.
- Using a running stitch, tack along the chalk line.
- Once marked, press out original trouser hem crease line.
- Turn trouser inside out and press turning up.
- Placing trouser on a flat surface, mark another line 2.5cm (1”), above your existing tack line. (The new line should be marked on the fabric which is turned up).
7. Measure 1.5cm (5/8”) from your second tack line. Mark with chalk. Using your dress maker’s shears/scissors, carefully cut along this chalk line.
8. Fold the cut edge over and press along the second tack line. You should now have two pressed lines. Remove the tack thread lines.
9. Pin the pressed line in place. Tack into place with stitches next to the fold line but not actually on the fold line (roughly about 2mm (1/8”) through all layers of fabric.
10. Continuing to work on the wrong side of the trouser, using matching thread, machine stitch as close as possible to tacked line. I have used a contrasting thread for your easy viewing.
11. Remove tack thread.
If stitching by hand, with matching thread, catch stitch between the hem and fabric. See instructions and diagram below.
Catch Stitching an Invisible Hem
The invisible hem stitch or blind hem stitch is hidden between the hem and the fabric. The two layers are joined by a row of stitches which zigzag from one side to the other, taking tiny bites from the two sides of fabrics as you sew along. It is used to hem light to medium-weight fabrics.
Notice how the needle catches a single weave of the trouser fabric.
Now note a slightly larger pinch of hem fabric.
The principles are the same as hemming trousers. Follow the Taking up Trouser Hem instructions.
www.strosecouture.com will be officially open for business on the 24th April 2012.
The website will be offering corsets and more. From the 24th April 2012, all corsets will be half price for a limited period. Please note: Our corsets are not mass produced and a custom facility will be available.
If you have found this blog helpful please leave a comment. Should you require additional help with your alterations please feel free to email us: email@example.com.
Next blog; Narrowing Trouser Legs.